The Woodcarvers of Pikin Slee

A busu no musu habi en keba

(There should be no end to the rain forest)

 

Location: Pikin Slee, Maroon village of the Saramaccan along the 
   

                   Suriname River

Theme:    Community development through valuing the forest

For more pictures and info check our youtubechannel:

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A busu no musu habi en keba

A koni fu na busi no musu lasi

Prati na boskopu taki wi e feti fu kibri na gudu fu grontapu en wi habi yepi fanowdu

There should be no end to the rain forest

We should not abandon the knowledge that our ancestors gave us to survive in these surroundings

Tell the world that we are fighting to preserve the wealth of the world and we need help to succeed

(Edje Doekoe)

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Totomboti Artwork

Totomboti Foundation of the Woodcarvers of Saramacca

In 2003 woodcarvers of the Saramacca maroon village of Pikin Slee on the Suriname River initiated the Totomboti foundation, named after the Amazon woodpecker. Armed with creativity and entrepreneurial spirit Totomboti evolved into a unique movement to cultivate the forest and the Saramaccan culture.

Totomboti Artwork

Totomboti uses the maroon’s century old craftsmanship and forestry knowledge as a tool to create local employment, social cohesion and restore the nature-based philosophy that has been at the core of Maroon cultural identity. Naturally blending elements of Rastafarianism and Maroon culture, the woodcarvers have managed to expand the cultural boundaries of their village. The men work on the basis of a collective decision making model, reflecting the governance structure of the village. Knowledge sharing and sustainable development are key pillars of the Totomboti operations.

The most visible of their activities are the woodcarvings, sprinkled throughout the village that blend the old and the new into enchanting art works. Their success is proven by sales as far as North America and Europe.

Maroon Museum

Totomboti has established the first Maroon Museum in Suriname, although the woodcarvers prefer to call it a learning centre as it also hosts a range of social activities and cultural demonstrations for villagers and visitors.

Pikin Slee

Built with the support of the supporting sister organisation in The Netherlands, it was constructed by the woodcarvers themselves and is situated in a beautiful spot in the forest.

The Centre’s compound is home to a botanical garden. It serves as a forest pharmacy, research and documentation centre and a learning ground for tourist and village youngsters.

A future cedar tree

Forestry activities are an important activity of Totomboti, this includes replanting, especially of species that are used for carving and selection cutting of the trees.

The agriculture project has introduced a consistent supply of fresh vegetables to the village, adding important nutritional value to the traditional diet of the villagers, while expanding income opportunities. Many of the artisans are herbalist as well providing medical services to villagers and tourists.

The woodcarving men have ambitious future plans: they will construct an on-site guest house to host visitors, researchers and supporters.

There is something special about the woodcarvers of Pikin Slee. These men have not received formal education, yet their library is the rainforest. Inherited from their ancestors is expert knowledge of the nature, herbs and rituals. Mando Doekoe is the administrator, Wilgo Doekoe is an herbalist and also a bush doctor, Edje Doekoe is a basja (an advisor to the village chief), Toya is the head of the woodcarving and the chairman of Totomboti and Abentini is a constructor. They have set up the Saramacca activities, in order to be able to spend more time in the village, not have to travel away from their families, and in order to pass on the knowledge to the future generations.

                      Edje Doekoe                              Mando Doekoe                              Wilgo Doekoe                              

The Saramaccan people

The woodcarvers belong to the maroons of the Saramaccan community. Descendants of enslaved Africans, who fled deep into the dense rainforest. Soon after the first Maroon settlements emerged in 1678, they waged war on the slave system, frequently attacking plantations and army posts; for necessities, revenge and to free other slaves. In the end the Dutch colonial authorities had no choice but to sign lasting peace treaties with several Maroon communities (In 1760 the Ndyuka, 1762 the Saramaka and in 1768 the Matawai). Currently there are 6 maroon societies in Suriname, each having their own religious and cultural traditions, governance and judicial structure. Elements of various West-African social traditions were blended and adapted to local conditions, incorporating influences from Amerindian communities. Each society consists of different matrilineal clans or “lo”, each living in river side villages in the rainforest. Each Society is headed by a main authority or paramount chief named Granman. Granmans are chosen from the most prominent clans and assisted by a range of councils and advisors.

Pikin Slee Village

Getting there

A red dusted road takes us through the hills of Brokopondo and Sipaliwini to Atjoni. The trip takes a 3 hour drive from the capital Paramaribo.  At peak time the dock is a buzzing with a cacophony of colorful boats, when we arrive it is mostly silenced, dominated by only a few boats waiting for late arrivals. The boat trip takes 2.5 hours gliding past the rock formations and dense forest of the Suriname River, passing village after village and several holiday resorts. Now and then you see women washing dishes and clothes and children of the villages swimming in the Suriname river.  The boatsman maneuver a heavy packed canoe through the sula’s (the troubled waters in the rock formation spots).

The Colorful Boats at Atjoni

PikinSlee has a special historic context we are told. It is the village where the grand council meetings of the villages along the Suriname River take place. These council meetings are only called upon for specific high level issues.

Pasensie Lodge

The arrival at Pasensie lodge makes the journey entirely worth it. We are welcomed by Jackie, the manager - a soft spoken, warm and welcoming woman. The resort is beautifully situated on the river banks. Eco-resort is an overused label in Suriname for any type of facility in the forest which is also the same with Pikin Slee. In reality Pasensie is a family run hotel, an extension of Jacky’s domestic life with a colorful parade of villagers passing by each day. 

Jennifer, Safi & Jacky relaxing at Pasensie Lodge

The rooms are modest but well maintained and the cooking is simple but tasty. Bring your washing amenities, mosquito sprays (mosquito nets are provided) and a lantern (often electricity lacks because of difficulties in securing fuel for the generator).

Suriname River

In addition to the buzzing sounds of night creatures, the darkness in the evening harbours a pleasant surprise; a starfilled sky covers the lodge like a blanket.

Price per person per night: USD 42 (SRD 140) (incl. breakfast)

Boat transport to Atjoni: USD 21 (SRD 70)

Bus transport Paramaribo-Atjoni: USD 21 (SRD 70)

(prices as of September 2011 1 SRD is US $ 0.30)

For more information activities in Pikin Slee:
Maroon museum: http://abengcentral.wordpress.com/tag/pikin-slee/
Pasensie guesthouse (dutch):http://www.totomboti.nl/pasensie.html

http://www.pasensie.com/

Totomboti (dutch): http://www.totomboti.nl/

http://karin-marijke-vis.suite101.com/suriname-travel--resort--hotel-pasensie-in-pikin-slee-a387822

 

For more information on Suriname's unique Maroon culture visit Richard and Sally Price's website:

http://www.richandsally.net/maroon_arts_8347.htm

RIS project. A promising and heavily underresourced programme that focuses on improving the success rate of children in Brokopondo and Sipaliwine in education. (dutch) http://www.risproject.nl/